Rolex Submariner: the iconic dive watch of James Bond

Launched in 1953, the Rolex Submariner quickly became a reference in the world of dive watches. With its iconic design, technical reliability, and association with cinema legends, it is today one of the most recognized and desired luxury watches worldwide — and an enduring symbol of adventure, elegance, and precision.

The benchmark for dive watches

The Rolex Submariner is to the world of luxury watchmaking what the Porsche 911 is to the world of cars: a true icon. First introduced in the 1954 Rolex catalog, it leveraged the brand’s expertise in waterproof watches and was immediately adopted as the ultimate dive and action watch.

Originally rated to 100 meters of water resistance, the Submariner quickly gained legendary status — especially after surviving a deep-sea test aboard Auguste Piccard’s bathyscaphe at over 3,000 meters. Its rugged performance made it a natural choice for professional divers and a favorite of style-conscious watch lovers alike.

A versatile watch for every occasion

Though first worn by men, vintage editions of the Submariner are now increasingly appreciated by women for their more compact dimensions. Equipped with a waterproof winding crown and conceived as a multipurpose tool, the Submariner is just as functional underwater as it is at high altitudes — or during elegant soirées.

With collectible versions featuring different dial and bezel colors, the Submariner has always embodied a sense of action and adventure.

A cultural and cinematic icon

Nicknamed “James Bond”, “Kermit”, or “Hulk” in some of its colorful editions, the Submariner has long been worn by celebrities and actors across generations. Sean Connery debuted it on screen in *Dr. No* (1962), followed by Roger Moore in Live and Let Die (1973).

Beyond Hollywood, the Submariner has been a tool of precision for professional divers, including those from COMEX, thanks to its unidirectional 60-minute bezel that helps accurately measure dive and decompression times.

Enduring value and investment appeal

On the collector’s market, the Submariner enjoys global recognition. Its resale value is universally understood, and the long waitlists at Rolex boutiques worldwide have only enhanced its reputation. In many cases, the Submariner sells well above its official retail price — especially coveted editions like the "Hulk", which reach record prices at auction.

Price evolution over time

Between 1988 and 2018, the price of a Submariner Date skyrocketed. The reference 16610 sold for around €2,000 in 1988, rose to €4,500 in 2008, and reached €8,000 by 2018 with reference 116610. Its value has followed — and sometimes exceeded — the increase in retail price, making the Submariner a rock-solid investment piece.

The watch of choice for collectors

For fans of Rolex pre-owned watches, the Submariner is often the first true grail piece in their collection. Despite being the most produced luxury watch in the world, it remains incredibly sought after, and rarely available at retail.

Its clean, purposeful design has inspired nearly every other diving watches in the industry. And yes, it is also the most counterfeited wristwatch ever made.