Rolex
Submariner 5513 Big crown & Guards - tritium split leather dial feet first

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513, 1971 — 40 mm stainless-steel case, matte black two-line “feet first” tritium dial, domed Plexiglas crystal — Sold with a Mostra luxury case

« Vintage Rolex watches have a simple magic: they carry time… and they carry an era. »

A vintage Rolex is not worn like a new watch. It is worn like a living object, made of light, patina, and habits. You put it on the wrist and, immediately, something changes: time feels denser, more tactile. The domed Plexiglas catches shop-window reflections, rounds the light, softens the angles; the matte black dial absorbs, then returns a calm presence. You don’t just “look” at the time you move through it. And there is a very particular pleasure to the Submariner 5513: a watch born for use, turned into an icon through sheer rightness. In everyday life, it is surprisingly easy. It works with a bomber jacket as well as with a blazer. It never shouts, yet it is instantly recognisable to those who know. The charm is there: the feeling of wearing a piece that has lived, that has texture and history, and that remains fully current because its shape is right. On this example, the dial has developed a sought-after patina known as “split leather”, a subtle grain that gives the black a unique personality, as if the surface had gained relief over time. That is precisely what enthusiasts come looking for: a Submariner that looks like no other.

The Submariner 5513 was produced over an exceptionally long period, from 1962 to 1989, which explains the richness of its variations and its status as a major reference among collectors. In 1971, it embodied Rolex’s top standard of the era: a professional watch, robust, highly legible, built to last, while already entering the collective imagination through its presence in popular culture and period advertising. In 1971, the Submariner 5513 sat at the very forefront of the highest manufacturing and finishing standards in the watchmaking world. As such, the Submariner was used by many professionals and military units (as illustrated by the Rolex Mil-Sub worn by British combat swimmers, and by civilian pieces worn by countless professionals, as evidenced by period advertisements). Sir Roger Moore, known as James Bond 007, was at that time one of the many members of the celebrities’ club to wear a Rolex 5513. 

The 40 mm steel case is paired with a rotating diving bezel and a domed Plexiglas crystal (“acrylic domed”) that enhances the dial and amplifies the vintage look on the wrist. The dial is matte black and two-line, in a “feet first” configuration, with tritium hour markers and the Swiss-T<25 marking; the whole has taken on a “split leather” patina with a fine grain, highly prized by collectors. The watch is powered by the automatic Rolex calibre 1520: 26 jewels, a frequency of 19,800 vibrations per hour, and around 42 hours of power reserve after a full wind. The large “big crown” and the case display crown guards that protect the winding crown; the lugs are drilled to make strap changes easier, with a 20 mm width. The steel bracelet ref. 93150 with 580 endlinks is an emblematic combination for vintage Submariners on an Oyster bracelet.

Worn on its steel bracelet, the 5513 remains the Submariner in its truest form: sporty, balanced, ready for anything, with that unique blend of brushed surfaces and reflections that makes the steel feel alive. With a shirt or a sweater, it becomes a city watch with a “tool-chic” edge. With a jacket, it returns to its adventure DNA. And that is its luxury: natural versatility, effortless, built on the simplicity of a no-date dial and instant legibility. Mostra—renowned for its service and customer experience—has been recognized in the specialist press as the pre-owned specialist. Customer reviews are verified and rated 5 stars, and every watch comes with an exceptional three-year warranty, rare on the pre-owned market. Beyond the purchase, we guide you through what matters most with a vintage Rolex: component coherence, dial and patina quality, wearing comfort, and watchmaking follow-up so the pleasure stays intact, year after year.

Discover our pre-owned Rolex Submariner