Breitling: the story of a legendary watch manufacture - Part 2

In the 1970s and 1980s, Breitling experienced a turbulent period, first challenged by the rise of quartz and competition from Rolex and Omega, then reborn under Ernest Schneider. From the Chronomatic innovation to the Emmergency beacon watch, the brand reasserted itself as a leader in aviation watches, while remaining highly collectible.

Breitling challenged by the competition in the 1970s

In the 1970s, Breitling saw its reputation decline, facing intense competition from brands like Rolex with the GMT Master and Glycine with the Airman. Meanwhile, Omega's Speedmaster, chosen by NASA for the Apollo missions, outshined Breitling in the aviation chronograph field.

In response, Breitling returned to its roots in watchmaking innovation by developing an automatic chronograph movement—Caliber 11—in collaboration with Buren and Dépraz. This same movement powered the iconic Heuer Monaco worn by Steve McQueen at Le Mans.

The Chronomatic movement and a new design direction

Breitling’s Navitimer was revamped with Caliber 11 and a new aesthetic: a left-side crown, two counters (minutes at 3 o’clock, hours at 9 o’clock), a date display, and a larger slide rule for improved readability. The design embraced the bold style of the 1970s.

The Caliber 11’s oscillating weight was placed beneath the dial, improving resistance to acceleration and kinetic stress—an essential feature for aviation professionals.

The quartz crisis and Breitling's downfall

As Japanese quartz watches surged in popularity, Breitling followed the trend, releasing quartz-powered models such as the Navitimer Jupiter Pilot. However, the brand could not withstand the market shift.

Breitling eventually collapsed. Its assets, including the Navitimer stock and production rights, were acquired by German manufacturer Sinn, known for its aviation watches and military-grade chronographs like those used by the Bundeswehr.

The rebirth of Breitling under Ernest Schneider

In 1979, Sicura owner and former soldier Ernest Schneider purchased Breitling. He revived the brand’s aviation identity, launching special editions for the Frecce Tricolori in 1984 and other elite aerobatic teams.

Limited editions for aviation excellence

Throughout the 1990s, Breitling released limited series for events like the Aerobatics World Championship in Le Havre (1992) and for teams such as the Patrouille de France and Spain’s Patrulla Aguilla.

       Chronographe Aerospace                    Old Navitimer                         Navitimer 2

                       Aerobatics World Championship           Patrouille de France                Patrulla Aguilla

Watches like the Navitimer Patrouille de France, Chronomat Blue Angels, and Navitimer 2 Patrulla Aguilla reconnected Breitling with air and space professionals and fans alike.

Professional chronographs and renewed collections

From his headquarters in Granges, Switzerland, Schneider expanded the brand with models like the Chronomat (1984), the Astromat 1461 with a perpetual calendar, and the Shark series developed with sailor Eric Tabarly, available in both quartz and automatic versions.

The return of mechanical Navitimers

In 1986, Breitling phased out quartz Navitimers and launched the Old Navitimer Date and Old Navitimer Cosmonaute with upgraded mechanics. In 1987, the dial layout was adjusted with counters at 9, 12, and 6 o'clock under reference 81610.

From Navitimer to Navitimer 2

In 1992, the Navitimer was redesigned and became the Navitimer 2. Smaller and more water-resistant than its predecessor, it also featured new functions: a tachymeter, pulsometer, and telemeter integrated into its circular slide rule.

The Emmergency watch: a beacon on the wrist

In 1995, Breitling introduced the Emmergency: the first watch with an integrated distress beacon, capable of emitting signals on 121.5 MHz (civilian) and 243 MHz (military). Developed in collaboration with Dassault Aviation, it was intended for professionals and required user registration with authorities.

Although the Cospas-Sarsat system ceased monitoring these frequencies in 2008, they are still scanned by aircraft and air traffic controllers. The Emmergency remains a cult object for collectors and aviation enthusiasts.