Tudor Submariner: the overlooked counterpart to the Rolex Submariner

Less famous than its iconic sibling, the Rolex Submariner, the Tudor Submariner played a crucial role in diving watch history. Conceived under Hans Wilsdorf’s vision, it served as a testing ground for Rolex innovations and equipped elite military units such as the French Navy.

A Rolex Submariner… with a twist

The Rolex Submariner has been a huge success among watch enthusiasts for decades, ranking among the world’s most desired timepieces for over thirty years. This dominance, however, is partly thanks to a lesser-known strategy: many innovations were first tested on a parallel model produced by Tudor — the Tudor Submariner.

Under Hans Wilsdorf’s direction, Tudor aimed to offer more affordable watches that still embodied the technical excellence and reliability of Rolex. These models often featured slightly less prestigious movements — either from older Rolex generations or from respected suppliers like ETA — and carried a dial bearing Tudor’s shield instead of the Rolex crown. Over time, this distinction extended to the winding crown and the folding clasp.

Strategic and progressive differentiation

Rolex, a master of applied Taylorism and mechanized watchmaking, implemented strict quality control from early on. Timepieces deemed slightly below Rolex’s top-tier standards could be reconditioned and sold under the Tudor name, protecting the prestige of the Rolex brand. This approach, unprecedented in early 20th-century watchmaking, was inspired by American company Elgin, which sold reconditioned pocket watches under its original name, National Watch Company.

By the late 1920s, Tudor models were produced alongside Rolex, often sharing similar designs. In the 1950s, riding the success of the waterproof Rolex Oyster case, Tudor incorporated it into its lineup (1952), setting the stage for the Tudor Submariner’s history.

Tudor’s role in military missions

Several naval forces sought high-performance diving watches for their combat swimmers. Rolex already had indirect experience supplying movements to Panerai, which fitted Italian military divers with Rolex-powered watches during World War II. Surprisingly, Rolex chose not to test certain innovations — such as the highly visible “snowflake” hands — on its own Submariner. Instead, Tudor was tasked with producing the first military-spec Submariners for the French Navy, tailored to meet strict defense requirements.

Pioneering models and shared innovations

In 1952, one year after the debut of the Rolex Submariner, Tudor released its reference 7922 — a 100-meter water-resistant model powered by the Fleurier caliber 390. At that time, only the dial and case back differentiated it from the Rolex; the bracelet and crown still bore the Rolex logo.

The 1955 reference 7923 was the only hand-wound Tudor Submariner, equipped with the ETA 1182 caliber. By 1958, the reference 7924, nicknamed “big crown,” featured a larger winding crown for improved handling. This upgrade also benefited Rolex Submariners, as the Oyster case’s water resistance increased from 10 to 20 ATM thanks to the new crown design.