Tudor Watches: a legacy linked to Rolex and innovation

Tudor has become a prestigious watch brand in its own right, offering the spirit and reliability of Rolex at a more accessible price. From its historic beginnings under Hans Wilsdorf to its modern independence and bold designs, Tudor's journey has redefined what a luxury tool watch can be.

From a Rolex sibling to its own identity

Originally registered in 1926 by the company "Veuve de Philippe Hüther" for Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, Tudor was created to offer reliable timepieces at a lower price point while maintaining the confidence associated with Rolex.

“For several years, I have studied the possibility of making a watch that our dealers can sell at a lower price than our Rolex watches and that is worthy of the same traditional confidence.” —Hans Wilsdorf

Tudor’s name draws from the historic English dynasty known for ending the War of the Roses. That symbolism of strength and legacy permeates the brand’s philosophy.

Duality and early innovation

Early Tudor models were designed for both men and women, with rectangular, tonneau, or bevelled cases. These pieces were distributed in distant markets, such as Australia, often via the “Veuve de Philippe Hüther” company.

1936: A symbolic rose

Hans Wilsdorf officially took over Tudor in 1936. That same year, the Tudor rose appeared on its dials, reinforcing the brand's identity while Rolex remained its technical backbone.

1950s–1970s: Professional tool watches emerge

In 1954, Tudor launched the Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922, its first dive watch. Backed by the rise of scuba diving and inspired by Jean-Yves Cousteau’s explorations, the model quickly gained a professional and military following.

Three years later, Tudor introduced its first alarm watch (the Advisor) and the Oysterthin, a waterproof, ultra-slim piece, echoing the Rolex Precision 6424’s success with stylish, rugged versatility.

1969: From rose to shield

Still closely tied to Rolex, Tudor updated its logo from the rose to a shield, symbolizing robustness. The Oyster 7017/0 debuted with both a day and date window, a best-seller in the collection.

Snowflake dials and military credibility

At the request of the French Navy, Tudor developed its famous "Snowflake" dials, combining improved legibility with reliable ETA automatic movements. These watches were easy to service in military workshops and became icons of functional design.

Note: until 1990, all Tudor watches were assembled by Rolex, with Rolex-signed bracelets and cases.

Constant innovation and shared DNA

Over the years, Tudor’s Submariner evolved with sapphire crystals, Fliplock clasps, notched rotating bezels, and more, often ahead of similar Rolex features. Smaller case sizes also allowed the Tudor Submariner to appeal to women divers.

Chronographs and collector appeal

The Tudor Chronograph Prince inspired elements later seen in the Rolex Daytona, including the bakelite and full-steel tachymeter bezels and nuanced dial colors. The “Tiger” edition, linked to Tiger Woods, is particularly collectible.

Between 1969 and 1999, Tudor released more than 20 Submariner references with various distinctive traits, a rich field for collectors worldwide.

2015: Tudor’s modern renaissance

At Baselworld 2015, Tudor introduced the North Flag and its first in-house movement, a statement of independence embodied in the brand’s bold slogan: "Born to Dare."

Partnerships and movement innovation

The Pelagos range returned with a left-handed version. But most notably, the Heritage Black Bay Chronograph dropped its ETA movement for the MT5813 — a caliber developed in collaboration with Breitling, based on their B01 chronograph movement. In return, Breitling adopted Tudor’s base calibers for its Superocean line.

A bold alternative, fully assumed

Like monarchs Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I, who led the Tudor dynasty into a new era, the Tudor watch brand has emerged from Rolex's shadow to claim its place on the world stage. Faithful to its founder’s vision, Tudor now embodies a daring alternative, respected, collectible, and thoroughly modern.