Glycine Airman SST: The Iconic Pilot Watch

The Glycine Airman SST is a pilot’s watch that defined an era. Beloved by military and civilian aviators alike, it became a staple in the cockpits of the 50s and 60s. Its unique technical features, slim profile and aesthetic refinements made it the perfect companion for the supersonic dreams of the 1970s.

A watch built for flight

The original Glycine Airman was highly popular among military air forces in the mid-20^th century. It was also adopted by many civilian pilots, especially throughout the 50s and 60s, in large part due to its endorsement by the American pilots' association AOPA, which offered members a discounted purchase price.

By the 1960s, its popularity had reached a peak, with crew members from numerous airlines wearing the Airman on their wrists as a symbol of professionalism and adventure.

Supersonic design for a new aviation era

In the 1970s, Glycine extended the life of the Airman with a new edition: the Airman SST. Featuring a more “Pop Art” case shape, this bold reinterpretation was launched just as the Concorde and Soviet Tupolev 144 were taking to European skies.

The American response: Boeing 2707 SST

Not to be outdone, the American aeronautics industry responded with the Boeing 2707 SST project, a planned supersonic long-haul aircraft capable of cruising at Mach 2.7 (faster than the Concorde), carrying up to 300 passengers over 6,750 km.

Its variable-geometry wings and tapered fuselage were cutting-edge, but the project was cancelled due to economic and environmental concerns. However, the research wasn’t wasted — it influenced military aircraft like the F-111, F-14 Tomcat, and the B1 bomber.

A model made for the American market

As the U.S. had more pilots than any other country, Glycine designed specific models for this market — often produced at scale, making them more affordable but rarely exported. The Airman SST and its limited “Special” edition are prime examples of this tailored production strategy.

One concept, two executions

The Airman SST

Glycine first launched the Airman SST with a 24-hour dial and 60-minute markers, keeping close to the original design. But the dial featured a new detail: an orange 24-hour disc under the crystal, displaying destination time by aligning two sets of 24-hour markers.

This disc was operated by a rotating crown-like pusher (rather than a push-in button), allowing alignment of local departure time and destination time. Minutes were read via a circular track beneath tritium markers on the black inner dial.

Ergonomic innovation for cockpit elegance

Airline pilots in the jet age were seen as glamorous figures — and worn shirt cuffs caused by abrasive crowns were unwelcome. Glycine responded with a smooth, integrated GMT pusher at 2 o’clock, preserving uniforms.

The notched external bezel of earlier models was replaced by an internal one beneath the glass, protecting shirt sleeves and reinforcing the sleek design.

Form follows function

The crystal was large and flat, reducing glare in bright cockpits. The dial extended close to the case edges, improving legibility. The matte orange disc offered excellent visibility in the dim red lighting used at night in aircraft cockpits — lighting that helped pilots avoid glare and reduced fatigue.

A thin and functional design

Unusually thin for an automatic watch, the SST provided unmatched comfort — outperforming bulkier rivals like the Rolex GMT Master, Breitling Navitimer, and Omega Flightmaster.

This slimness was also due to Glycine's decision to omit the chronograph, which had become less necessary due to evolving air traffic control procedures.

No longer essential: the onboard chronograph

By the late 1960s, continuous communication between pilots and air traffic controllers — especially during departures and approaches — reduced the need for pilot-operated timers. Real-time weather and time data were now monitored with the assistance of ground-based guidance.

Movements that shaped the legend

The Airman “Supersonic” was powered by the A. Schild AS1903 movement (1967–1971), followed by the AS2063 (1971–1974), and finally the AS2163 (1974–1978). All three were high-performing, reliable calibers. Later models adopted quartz movements, helping Breitling regain favor with pilots after its 1980s acquisition by Ernest Schneider.

The Airman Special Supersonic: a hidden gem

The second variant — the Airman Special Supersonic — had no “SST” marking on the dial, but featured it engraved on the caseback. This extremely rare version was never officially sold outside the U.S., with only a few known Canadian exceptions.

It shared the same specs as the standard SST, but was built around the advanced AS 1701 movement, created in response to strong demand from the U.S. market after AOPA listed it as an alternative to the Breitling Navitimer.

True to its tradition, Glycine offered AOPA members and aircraft owners this model at a preferential rate — a rare timepiece, designed by and for elite pilots.