The history of Grand Seiko: an endless pursuit of perfection

Grand Seiko, born from Seiko’s pursuit of perfection, blends Japanese craftsmanship with groundbreaking watchmaking innovations. From its origins in 1892 to its iconic quartz and mechanical movements, the brand has continually challenged Swiss standards and elevated Japanese horology to global acclaim.

Origins and Vision

In the world of watchmaking, some names evoke more than others innovation, an unwavering pursuit of perfection, elegance, and the lasting legacy of craftsmanship. Among these famous names in history, men like Abraham Louis Breguet or Gérald Genta will leave their mark in the pantheon of watchmaking. In this mechanical Olympus, many brands have since made their residence, but since the 1960s, one brand has gradually stood out, synonymous with unparalleled precision, timeless design, and exceptional quality: Grand Seiko.

Created in the Japanese tradition of martial craftsmanship, Grand Seiko reflects a balance between the master's precise gesture and the rigor needed to achieve ultimate craftsmanship. Drawing from centuries-old traditions, the brand redefined the essence of watchmaking in a country that idealized mechanical perfection.

Early Foundations

The brand’s roots trace back to 1892 when Kintaro Hattori registered the Seikosha trademark. Aware of European industrial revolutions, Hattori organized production with distinct ranges and a focus on customer needs. His vision transformed a small Tokyo shop into a modern watch and clock factory within years.

The First Grand Seiko

In 1960, Seiko launched the first Grand Seiko watch, powered by the GS 3180 movement. It became the first Japanese watch to meet the Japanese Watch Accuracy Bureau’s excellence standards. Key features included a 45-hour power reserve, a hacking mechanism for precise setting, and a two-phase regulation system, unprecedented in Japan at the time.

Expanding the Legacy

By 1964, the Self-Dater model added a date window and 50m water resistance. In 1967, the 44GS manual-winding model achieved the title of the world’s most accurate mechanical movement. While mechanical excellence grew, Grand Seiko also advanced in quartz technology, leading to the launch of the 95GS in 1988—its first high-end quartz watch, surpassing all rivals in precision and durability.

Internal Rivalry and Innovation

Between the 1950s and 1970s, Seiko’s internal competition between its Suwa and Daini factories was intense but ultimately beneficial, driving innovation and quality improvements. Similar to Japanese tech giants like Canon, Seiko leveraged multiple production units to push boundaries collectively.

Pre-War and Wartime Challenges

Before Japan’s entry into WWII, Seiko operated two main branches: K. Hattori and Company, and Daini Seikosha, which specialized in professional timepieces. Anticipating bombings, Daini relocated production to Nagano in 1942, a move that preserved its capabilities after Tokyo’s Kameido site was destroyed.

Post-War Decline

After the war, shortages in raw materials, the mobilization of skilled workers, and scattered production sites led to a decline in quality. Many watches used Moeris 10 movements or local reproductions, far from Seiko’s earlier standards.

Rebuilding and the Seiko Super

The 1950s marked Seiko’s revival, aided by post-war economic growth and renewed optimism. The Suwa factory’s “Seiko Super” movement drew on global watchmaking knowledge, marking Seiko’s first caliber with a central second hand.

Marvel vs. Cronos: Factory Rivalry

Under Genzo Hattori, competition between factories intensified. In 1956, Suwa introduced the Marvel, praised for reliability and innovation. Daini responded with the Cronos, powered by the in-house caliber 54A. This rivalry continued into the 1960s, fueling Seiko’s rapid development and laying the foundation for Grand Seiko’s enduring reputation.