Rolex History: From Its Origins to the Classic and Professional Collections

From the water-resistant Oyster case of 1926 to the Perpetual self-winding rotor of 1931, then from the Datejust to professional icons such as the Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer and Daytona, Rolex built its history around watches designed for use. This guide traces the manufacture’s major milestones, main collections and the essential benchmarks for understanding the pre-owned Rolex market.

From this dual lineage emerged two families still in production today: the Classic range (Rolex Oyster Perpetual, Rolex Datejust, Lady-Datejust, Day-Date, Sky-Dweller and, since 2023, the Perpetual 1908, heir to the Cellini spirit) and the Professional range (Rolex Submariner, Sea-Dweller, Deepsea, Explorer & Explorer II, Rolex GMT-Master / GMT-Master II, Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, Air-King, Yacht-Master & Yacht-Master II, Milgauss—now discontinued). This “evolutionary constancy” lies at the heart of Rolex’s prestige.

Rolex in a Few Milestones: The Essentials

Since Hans Wilsdorf founded Rolex in 1905, two innovations have shaped much of the brand’s identity: the water-resistant Oyster case patented in 1926 and the automatic Perpetual winding system adopted in 1931. From that foundation, Rolex progressively developed two major universes: classic watches for everyday and formal wear, and professional watches designed for diving, travel, exploration, aviation and chronograph timing.

This guide provides an overview of those collections, their principal production milestones and their intended uses. To browse models currently available, discover all our pre-owned Rolex watches. You can also explore the most emblematic references in our Legendary Watches selection.

Rolex Classic Watches

Oyster Perpetual

Launch: 1931 (Perpetual concept) — Production: continuous
Key features: three-hand watch without date, 100 m water resistance, Oystersteel, lacquered/sunray dials, Superlative Chronometer; calibres 2232 (smaller sizes) and 3230 (36/41).

Size over time: historically varied sizes; OP 39 (2015–2020) → OP 41 (since 2020). Current range: 28, 31, 34, 36, 41 mm. The 2023 editions popularized the multicolour “Celebration” dials.

Key Rolex Oyster Perpetual References with indicative production periods:

Vintage / Historical

• Ref. 1002 (34 mm) — c. 1959–1980s.

• Ref. 1018 (36 mm) — 1960s (rare, produced for only a few years).

Modern era (pre-2020)

• Ref. 116000 (36 mm) — c. 2010–2020 (cal. 3130).

• Ref. 114300 (39 mm) — 2015–2020 (OP 39).

Current generation (since 2020)

• Ref. 276200 (28 mm) — 2020–present (cal. 2232).

• Ref. 277200 (31 mm) — 2020–present (cal. 2232).

• Ref. 124200 (34 mm) — 2020–present (cal. 2232).

• Ref. 126000 (36 mm) — 2020–present (cal. 3230).

• Ref. 124300 (41 mm) — 2020–2025 (cal. 3230) — replaced by 134300 in 2025.

• Ref. 134300 (41 mm) — 2025–present (case/clasp evolution).

The periods above refer to reference families; variations exist by dial/version. For precise dating of a given piece, cross-check the serial number, case/bracelet references, and movement (e.g., calibre 3230 introduced in 2020).

Browse our current selection of pre-owned Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches.

Datejust & Lady-Datejust

Launch: Datejust 1945; Lady-Datejust 1957 — Production: continuous
Key features: instantaneous date at 3 o’clock under Cyclops lens, 100 m water resistance, Jubilee or Oyster bracelets, smooth/fluted bezels, steel/bi-metal/gold configurations.
Size over time (men): historic 36 mm; Datejust II 41 mm (2009–2016) → Datejust 41 (since 2016, refined proportions).
Size over time (women): Lady-Datejust 25/26 mm historically → 28 mm (since 2015). Also 31 mm (elegant unisex).

Key Rolex Datejust & Lady-Datejust references with production periods:

Datejust (36 mm, then 41 mm)

• 6305 — approx. 1953–1955/59 (early “Ovettone” Datejusts).

• 6605 — approx. 1956–1959/60.

• 1601 / 1603 / 1600 (16xx family) — approx. 1959/60–1977.

• 16014 / 16030 / 16000 (160xx family) — approx. 1977–1988 (introduction of cal. 3035/quickset).

• 16200 / 16220 / 16234 (162xx family) — approx. 1988–2005.

• 116200 / 116234 etc. (1162xx family, Datejust 36) — approx. 2005–2020.

• Datejust II 116300 / 116334 (41 mm) — 2009–2016.

• Datejust 41 126300 / 126334 / 126331 (41 mm) — since 2016.

• Datejust 36 126200 / 126234 (36 mm, cal. 3235) — since 2018.

Midsize / 31 mm (selection)

• 682xx / 782xx / 1782xx — 1980s–2014 (successive evolutions).

• 2782xx (Datejust 31, cal. 2236/3235 depending on version) — since ~2014/2018.

Lady-Datejust (26 mm → 28 mm)

• 6517 (Lady-Date) — from 1957; production documented in the 1960s.

• 6917 / 69173 (69xx family, 26 mm) — 1970s–1990s (broad period evidenced by examples).

• 79173 / 79xxx (26 mm) — approx. 1999–2005.

• 179173 / 179xxx (26 mm) — approx. 2003/04–2015/16 (progressive end of the 26 mm size).

• 2791xx / 27917x (Lady-Datejust 28 mm) — since 2015 (new 28 mm generation).

Important notes:

• The years above are indicative for reference families; specific references may overlap by market and update cycles. Precise dating of an individual watch should cross-check serial number, case/bracelet ref., and movement.

• The Datejust 41 (1263xx) replaced the Datejust II (1163xx) in 2016; the Datejust 36 (1262xx) adopted calibre 3235 starting in 2018.

For current availability, browse our pre-owned Rolex Datejust watches. For a deeper reference-by-reference overview, read our complete Rolex Datejust guide.

Day-Date “President”

Launch: 1956 — Production: continuous
Key features: day spelled out + date, exclusively in 18 ct gold or platinum, President bracelet, classic or hard-stone dials; modern calibre 3255.
Size over time: 36 mm (1956 →), Day-Date II 41 mm (2008–2015) → Day-Date 40 (since 2015).

Perpetual 1908 (Cellini heritage)

Launch: 2023 — Production: continuous
Key features: slim dress watch, gold/platinum cases, small seconds, sapphire caseback, hand finishing, calibre 7140.
Current size: 39 mm.

Dress line succeeding the Cellini spirit: 39 mm slim cases in 18 ct gold or platinum, calibre 7140 visible through sapphire back, “Breguet”/sword hands, and since 2025 an exclusive Settimo strap. It is the showcase of Rolex’s contemporary classicism.

Note on Cellini: under this name, a dress line was relaunched in 2014 (Time, Date, Dual Time, Moonphase) and replaced in 2023 by the Perpetual 1908, which carries forward the mission of a slim, traditional city Rolex.

Sky-Dweller

Launch: 2012 — Production: continuous
Key features: dual time (off-center 24-hour ring), annual Saros calendar (one correction/year), Ring-Command bezel for intuitive settings; steel/gold/Rolesor versions, Oyster or Oysterflex bracelets.
Diameter: 42 mm since launch.

Travel watch combining dual time zones and an annual Saros calendar (one correction per year, in March), operated via the Ring Command bezel. Wide choice of Rolesor and precious-metal versions with Oyster or Oysterflex bracelet.

Key Rolex Sky-Dweller references with production periods

1st generation – calibre 9001 (refs. 3269xx)

• 326938 — yellow gold, Oyster bracelet: 2012–2023 (then replaced by 336238).

• 326939 — white gold, Oyster bracelet: 2012–2018 (discontinued).

• 326135 — Everose, leather: 2012–2019 (leather line ended before Oysterflex arrived).

• 326138 — yellow gold, leather: 2014–c. 2020 (leather versions ended in 2020).

• 326139 — white gold, leather: 2014–2018 (discontinued).

• 326935 — Everose, Oyster bracelet: 2014–2023 (then replaced by 336935).

Rolesor & Steel/Gold (Baselworld 2017)

• 326933 — yellow Rolesor (steel + yellow gold): 2017–2023.

• 326934 — Oystersteel + white-gold bezel (White Rolesor): 2017–2023 (Jubilee offered from 2021).

Oysterflex versions (2020)

• 326238 — yellow gold, Oysterflex: 2020–2023.

• 326235 — Everose, Oysterflex: 2020–2023.

2nd generation – calibre 9002 (refs. 3369xx, since 2023)

• 336934 — Oystersteel + white-gold bezel (White Rolesor): 2023–present (cal. 9002, Jubilee/Oyster).

• 336933 — yellow Rolesor: 2023–present.

• 336238 — yellow gold (often on Oysterflex): 2023–present.

• 336235 — Everose (often on Oysterflex): 2023–present.

• 336935 — Everose, metal/Jubilee bracelet: 2023–present.

Pearlmaster

Launch: 1992 — Production: ~1992–2022
Key features: gem-set cases/bracelets, specific Pearlmaster bracelet, jewellery dials.
Sizes: 29, 34, 39 mm.

Key Rolex Pearlmaster references with indicative production periods (by families and sizes). The year ranges below are based on market and documentation observations; each individual watch should be dated by serial number, case/bracelet reference, and calibre.

Pearlmaster 29 mm (80xxx family) — 1992–2015
Inaugural line (1992); the 29 mm size was discontinued when Rolex broadened the range in 2015.

• 80298 (yellow gold, often gem-set bezel) — examples seen 2000–2008.

• 80299 (white gold, often gem-set bezel) — examples seen 2001 (and 2000s).

• 80318 (yellow gold) — production observed 1999–2010s.

• 80319 (white gold) — 2000s (multiple jewellery configurations).

• 80359 (white gold, extensive pavé/setting) — examples c. 2001 and 2000s.

Pearlmaster 34 mm (81xxx family) — 2005–2022
Mid-size, widely produced until the line ended in 2022.

• 81298 (yellow gold) — examples seen 2009–2018.

• 81299 (white gold) — 2000s–2010s (market observations).

• 81318 (yellow gold) — examples seen 2009–2015 (and 2010s).

• 81319 / 81339 (white gold, gem-set variants) — 2010s (observations & listings).

Pearlmaster 39 mm (86xxx family) — 2015–2022
New size launched at Basel 2015, calibre 3235; jewellery references (sapphire/diamond bezels).

• 86348 SAJOR / 86349 SAFUBL / 86405 RBR / 86409 RBR (yellow/white gold, various gem-set bezels) — 2015–2022.

Note: Rolex discontinued the entire Pearlmaster collection in 2022.

Oysterquartz (Datejust & Day-Date)

Launch: 1977 — End of production: c. 2001 (with final retail sales observed up to 2003)
Key features: angular architecture with integrated case/bracelet (36 mm), sapphire crystal, ticking seconds, Rolex quartz calibres (5035 for Datejust, 5055 for Day-Date), 100 m water resistance.
Size over time: 36 mm (unchanged across the line).

Main references & indicative periods

Oysterquartz Datejust (cal. 5035)
• 17000 — steel, smooth bezel — 1977–2001.
• 17013 — yellow Rolesor (steel/yellow gold), fluted bezel — 1977–2001.
• 17014 — white Rolesor (steel/white gold), fluted bezel — 1977–2001.
(rarer variants: 17010 — steel, engine-turned bezel, depending on market/years)

Oysterquartz Day-Date (cal. 5055)
• 19018 — yellow gold — 1977–2001.
• 19019 — white gold — 1977–2001.
• 19028 / 19038 / 19048 / 19049 / 19148 / 19168… — jewellery versions (bark/florentine finishes, gem-set bezels/dials) — late 1970s–2001.

Notes: precise dating is done via serial number, dial codes, and bracelet markings. The Oysterquartz remains a distinct lineage in Rolex history, instantly recognisable by its integrated case-bracelet design and sharp bevels.

Rolex Professional Watches

Explorer

Launch: 1953 — Production: continuous
Key features: ultra-legible 3-6-9 dial (Chromalight), 100 m water resistance, versatile “field” watch.
Size over time: historic 36 mm; 39 mm (2010–2021); return to 36 mm (2021 →); 40 mm added (2023 →).

To explore the model in depth, read our complete Rolex Explorer guide and browse our pre-owned Rolex Explorer watches.

Main references & indicative periods

• 6150 / 6350 — 1952/53–1955 (early/first “Explorer”, honeycomb dials on some versions, 36 mm, acrylic).

• 6610 — 1955–1959 (36 mm, acrylic).

• 1016 — 1963–1989 (36 mm, acrylic; emblematic reference).

• 14270 — 1989–2001 (36 mm, sapphire, cal. 3000).

• 114270 — 2001–2010 (36 mm, cal. 3130).

• 214270 — 2010–2021 (39 mm, cal. 3132; “short hands” 2010–2016, “long hands” 2016–2020).

• 124270 — 2021–present (36 mm, cal. 3230).

• 224270 — 2023–present (40 mm, cal. 3230).

Explorer II

Launch: 1971 — Production: continuous
Key features: 24-hour hand and fixed bezel for day/night reading (then true second time zone), 100 m water resistance.
Size over time: 40 mm (1655/16550/16570) → 42 mm (since 2011: 216570, then 226570).

For the full history and reference evolution, read our Rolex Explorer II guide and browse our pre-owned Rolex Explorer II watches.

Main references & indicative periods

• 1655 — 1971–1985 (40 mm, orange “arrow” hand, acrylic).

• 16550 — 1985–1989 (40 mm, sapphire, cal. 3085; black/white dials, “cream dial” on some series).

• 16570 — 1989–2011 (40 mm, cal. 3185 then 3186 late in the run).

• 216570 — 2011–2021 (42 mm, cal. 3187, return of the large orange hand).

• 226570 — 2021–present (42 mm, cal. 3285).

GMT-Master & GMT-Master II

Launch: 1955 — Production: continuous
Key features: 24-hour bezel (often bi-colour), GMT hand, independently jumping local hour on the II, 100 m water resistance.
Size over time: approx. 38 mm (6542, 1955) → 40 mm becoming the standard (1675 → current GMT-Master II models).

GMT-Master (1960s–1999)

• 6542 — 1955–1959 (approx. 38 mm, early bakelite bezel, acrylic).

• 1675 — 1959–1980 (40 mm, acrylic; “Pepsi”).

• 16750 — 1980–1988 (40 mm, sapphire, cal. 3075, quickset).

• 16700 — 1988–1999 (40 mm, last “simple” GMT-Master, cal. 3175).

GMT-Master II (1983–today)

• 16760 “Fat Lady” — 1983–1988 (40 mm, sapphire, cal. 3085; “Coke”).

• 16710 — 1989–2007 (40 mm, cal. 3185 then 3186; Pepsi/Coke/Black inserts).

• 116718LN / 116713LN / 116710LN — 2005–2019 (Cerachrom ceramic, yellow gold/rolesor/steel; 116710BLNR “Batman” 2013–2019).

• 116719BLRO (white-gold “Pepsi”) — 2014–2018 (pre-cal. 3285).

Calibre 3285 generation (since 2018)

• 126710BLRO (steel, “Pepsi”, Jubilee then Oyster) — 2018–present.

• 126710BLNR (steel, “Batman/BLNR”) — 2019–present (Jubilee then Oyster).

• 126711CHNR / 126715CHNR (Everose Rolesor / Everose gold “Root Beer”) — 2018–present.

• 126719BLRO (white-gold “Pepsi”, meteorite dial in some periods) — 2018–present.

• 126720VTNR (left-hand crown, green/black bezel) — 2022–present.

• 126713GRNR / 126718GRNR (yellow Rolesor / yellow gold, grey/black bezel) — 2023–present.

To go further, discover our pre-owned Rolex GMT-Master watches and read the history of the Rolex GMT-Master.

Submariner / Submariner Date

Launch: 1953 — Production: continuous
Key features: 60-minute unidirectional bezel, underwater legibility, Oyster bracelet with Glidelock, 300 m (Sub / Sub Date), current calibres 3230/3235.
Size over time: early ~37–38 mm (1950s) → 40 mm (5-digit/6-digit generations) → 41 mm (since 2020).

Submariner (no-date)

Launch: 1953 — Production: continuous
Key features: 60-minute unidirectional bezel, underwater legibility, modern generations rated to 300 m, Oyster bracelet (Glidelock on recent models).
Sizes over time: ~37–38 mm (1950s) → 40 mm (5- & 6-digit) → 41 mm (since 2020).

Main references & indicative periods

Submariner Date

Commercial launch: 1969 (ref. 1680) — Production: continuousKey features: 60-minute unidirectional bezel, date under Cyclops, 300 m, Oyster bracelet with Glidelock (recent generations).Sizes over time: 40 mm → 41 mm (since 2020).Main references & indicative periods

• 1680 — 1969–1979 (first Sub Date, acrylic; some “Red Sub” series).
• 16800 — 1979–1988 (transition to sapphire, 300 m, early matte then glossy/surrounds).
• 168000 — 1988–1989 (transitional 904L steel).
• 16610 — 1989–2010 (40 mm, cal. 3135, sapphire, 300 m).
• 116610LN / LV — 2010–2020 (Cerachrom bezel, 40 mm; “LV” green).
• 126610LN / LV — 2020–present (41 mm, cal. 3235, 300 m).

Explore our pre-owned Rolex Submariner watches and our complete Rolex Submariner guide.

Sea-Dweller / Deepsea / Deepsea Challenge

Launch: Sea-Dweller 1967; Deepsea 2008; Deepsea Challenge 2022 — Production: continuous
Key features: saturation diving with helium valve, Ringlock system (Deepsea), extreme ratings: SD 1,220 m / Deepsea 3,900 m / Challenge 11,000 m (experimental).
Size over time: Sea-Dweller historic 40 mm (1665 → 116600, 2014–2017) → 43 mm (since 2017, 126600); Deepsea 44 mm (since 2008); Challenge 50 mm (2022, RLX titanium).

Sea-Dweller / Deepsea (saturation-diving family)

Sea-Dweller — Launch: 1967 — Production: continuous
Key features: deep-diving watch with helium escape valve, enhanced legibility, higher depth ratings than the Submariner.

Main references & indicative periods

• 1665 “Double Red Sea-Dweller” (DRSD) — 1967–1977 — 40 mm, acrylic, 610 m / 2000 ft, two lines of red text.

• 1665 “Great White” — 1977–1983 — 40 mm, acrylic, 610 m / 2000 ft, all-white text.

• 16660 “Triple Six” — 1978–1989 — 40 mm, sapphire, 1220 m / 4000 ft, technical upgrades (valve/case).

• 16600 — 1989–2009 — 40 mm, sapphire, 1220 m.

• 116600 “Sea-Dweller 4000” (SD4K) — 2014–2017 — 40 mm, Cerachrom bezel, 1220 m.

• 126600 — 2017–present — 43 mm, red “SEA-DWELLER” text, 1220 m.

Deepsea (Ringlock sub-family)

• 116660 — 2008–2018 — 44 mm, Ringlock system, 3900 m / 12,800 ft.

• 126660 — 2018–2022 — 44 mm, dial/bracelet updates, 3900 m.

• 136660 — 2022–present — 44 mm, updated proportions/clasp, 3900 m.

Deepsea Challenge

• 126067 (RLX titanium) — 2022–present — 50 mm, 11,000 m / 36,090 ft, record-spec series production.

Notes:
• The year ranges above refer to reference families; overlaps occur by market and transition periods.
• For precise dating, cross-check serial number, case/bracelet refs, crystal type (acrylic/sapphire), lume (tritium → Luminova → Super-Luminova → Chromalight), and calibre.
• Reference depth ratings: Sea-Dweller 1220 m, Deepsea 3900 m, Deepsea Challenge 11,000 m.

To explore the saturation-diving lineage in greater depth, read our feature Rolex Sea-Dweller: More Than a Waterproof Watch.

Yacht-Master / Yacht-Master II

Launch: Yacht-Master (nautical) 1992; Yacht-Master II (regatta) 2007 — Production: continuous
Key features: YM: raised 60-min bidirectional bezel, nautical elegance, Oysterflex options. YM II: programmable regatta countdown with memory, Ring-Command.
Size over time: YM 37/40/42 mm (42 mm also in RLX titanium); YM II 44 mm.

Yacht-Master (nautical line)

Launch: 1992 — Production: continuous
Key features: raised 60-minute bidirectional bezel, nautical styling, gold/rolesor/steel & platinum (“Rolesium”) versions, Oysterflex on some models.
Sizes: 29 / 35 / 37 / 40 / 42 mm depending on period & reference.

Main references & indicative periods

Early full-gold models

• 16628 (40 mm, yellow gold) — 1992–2010s.

• 68628 (35 mm, yellow gold) — 1990s–2000s.

• 69628 (29 mm, yellow gold) — 1990s–2000s.

Rolesium (steel + platinum bezel/dial)

• 16622 (40 mm) — 1999–2012.

• 168622 (35 mm) — c. 2003–2012.

• 169622 (29 mm) — c. 2003–2012.

Ceramic/modernised generation

• 116622 (40 mm, Rolesium) — 2012–2019.

• 116621 (40 mm, Everose Rolesor) — 2016–2019.

• 116655 (40 mm, Everose gold, Oysterflex) — 2015–2019.

• 268655 (37 mm, Everose gold, Oysterflex) — 2015–2019.

Move to new 32xx calibres & extensions

• 126622 (40 mm, Rolesium) — 2019–present (cal. 3235).

• 126621 (40 mm, Everose Rolesor) — 2019–present (cal. 3235).

• 126655 (40 mm, Everose gold, Oysterflex) — 2019–present (successor to 116655).

• 268622 / 268621 (37 mm, Rolesium / Everose Rolesor) — 2016–present (cal. 2236).

• 226659 (42 mm, white gold, Oysterflex) — 2019–present.

• 226658 (42 mm, yellow gold, Oysterflex) — 2022–present.

• 226627 (42 mm, RLX titanium, Oyster) — 2023–present.

Yacht-Master II (regatta line)

Launch: 2007 — End of production: 2024 (collection discontinued)
Key features: 1–10 min programmable regatta countdown with memory and Ring-Command bezel (mechanical command of the calibre), cal. 4160 then 4161, 100 m, 44 mm.
Diameter: 44 mm (all versions).
Status: discontinued in 2024 (removed from the catalogue).

Main references & indicative periods

• 116689 — grey/white gold + platinum bezel — 2007–2024.

• 116688 — yellow gold — 2007–2024.

• 116681 — Everose Rolesor (steel/Everose gold) — 2011–2024.

• 116680 — steel (Oystersteel) — 2013–2024.

Air-King

Launch: 1958 (name applied); modern return 2016 — Production: continuous
Key features: instrument-inspired dial (3-6-9 + minute scale), water resistance 100 m; modern models with Chromalight; crown guards since 2022.
Size over time: historic 34 mm; modern 40 mm (2016 → 116900; 2022 → 126900).
Recent updates: in 2022, new case with crown guards and adoption of the calibre 3230.

Main references & indicative periods

• 5500 — c. 1958–1989 (34 mm, many variants).

• 14000 / 14010 — 1989–2007 (34 mm, sapphire).

• 114200 — 2007–2014 (34 mm, last “small” modern Air-King).

• 116900 — 2016–2022 (40 mm, cal. 3131, Milgauss-style anti-magnetic protection).

• 126900 — 2022–present (40 mm, cal. 3230, crown guards).

Milgauss

Launch: 1956; revival in 2007; End of production: 2023
Key features: anti-magnetic 1,000 gauss protection (Faraday cage), lightning-bolt seconds hand; modern versions with green sapphire (GV); water resistance 100 m.
Size over time: ~38 mm (vintage 6541/1019) → 40 mm (modern 116400/116400GV).

Status: discontinued in 2023.

Main references & indicative periods

• 6541 — c. 1956–1958 (vintage with “lightning” hand).

• 1019 — 1960–1988 (clean, scientific look).

• 116400 / 116400GV — 2007–2023 (40 mm, clear or Green GV sapphire).

Cosmograph Daytona

Launch: 1963 — Production: continuous
Key features: three-register chronograph, tachymeter, 100 m water resistance;

Movements by generation: manual-wind Valjoux (1963–1988) → “Zenith” 4030 (1988–2000) → 4130 (2000–2023) → 4131 (since 2023). 

Size over time: 36–37 mm (manual era) → 40 mm (automatic era → today).

Main references & indicative periods

• Manual era (acrylic, 36–37 mm): 6239 / 6241 / 6262 / 6264 / 6263 / 6265 — 1963–1988.
• “Zenith” era (40 mm, sapphire, cal. 4030): 16520 (steel), 16523 (yellow Rolesor), 16528 (yellow gold) — 1988–2000.
• Cal. 4130 era (40 mm): 116520 (steel, 2000–2016); 116523 / 116528 / 116509 (Rolesor/solid gold, 2000–2016); 116500LN (Cerachrom bezel, 2016–2023).
• 2023 generation (cal. 4131): 126500LN (steel), 126503 (yellow Rolesor), 126518LN (yellow gold on Oysterflex), 126515 / 126505 (Everose), 126508 (yellow gold), 126506 (platinum) — 2023–present.

Browse our pre-owned Rolex Cosmograph Daytona watches and read our complete Rolex Daytona collector’s guide.

The Great Legendary Rolex Watches to Explore at Mostra

Some Rolex families have become reference points in watch collecting. From this overview, you can continue with our dedicated selections of Oyster Perpetual, Datejust, GMT-Master, Submariner, Cosmograph Daytona, Explorer and Explorer II.

These model pages concentrate the buying intent and currently available stock, while this article remains the historical and editorial overview. You can also browse the broader Legendary Watches selection.

Rolex Production Markers

Datejust (1945–); Lady-Datejust (1957–); Day-Date (1956–); Oyster Perpetual (1930s–); Sky-Dweller (2012–); Perpetual 1908 (2023–); Pearlmaster (1992–c. 2022). On the Professional side: Submariner (1953–); Sea-Dweller (1967–); Deepsea (2008–); Deepsea Challenge (2022–); Explorer (1953–); Explorer II (1971–); GMT-Master (1955–) / GMT-Master II (1982–); Cosmograph Daytona (1963–); Air-King (1958–); Yacht-Master (1992–); Yacht-Master II (2007–); Milgauss (1956–1988; 2007–2023). These periods refer to model families; each reference has its own dates.

Which Rolex Collection Should You Choose for Your Use?

City & elegance. The Datejust / Lady-Datejust prioritises everyday versatility and the date display; the Day-Date adds the fully spelled-out day; the Sky-Dweller combines travel functions with an annual calendar; the 1908 represents formal Rolex watchmaking; and the Oyster Perpetual remains the most pared-back expression of the Oyster concept.

Exploration & travel. The Explorer focuses on legibility and simplicity, while the Explorer II adds a 24-hour display. For multiple time zones, the GMT-Master II is the historic Rolex travel watch, while the Sky-Dweller adds an annual calendar.

Diving. The Submariner is the most versatile Rolex dive-watch family. Sea-Dweller, Deepsea and Deepsea Challenge extend the concept towards saturation diving and increasingly extreme depth ratings.

Chronograph & nautical use. The Cosmograph Daytona is Rolex’s emblematic racing chronograph, while the Yacht-Master family explores a more nautical interpretation of the professional Oyster watch.

Buying Guide: How to Choose a Pre-Owned Rolex

1. Define Your Use

• Versatile city watch: Datejust 31/36/41, Lady-Datejust 28.
• Dress & executive: Day-Date 36/40, Perpetual 1908 39.
• Travel: GMT-Master II, Sky-Dweller.
• Sport & sea: Submariner 41, Sea-Dweller 43, Yacht-Master 37/40/42.
• Exploration: Explorer 36/40, Explorer II 42.
• Chronograph: Daytona 40.
• Technical character: Air-King 40, Milgauss (discontinued).

2. Examine the Watch’s Condition and Coherence

• Dial & hands: generation coherence (tritium/Luminova/Super-Luminova/Chromalight), typography, hour-marker surrounds and possible service replacements.
• Case: preserved geometry, even lugs, edges and evidence of previous polishing.
• Movement: calibre coherence, rate, amplitude where relevant, power reserve and magnetisation.
• Water resistance: pressure test and condition of gaskets, crown and tubes when relevant.
• Bracelet: references, stretch/play, clasp operation and consistency with the watch’s period.
• Set & history: box, papers, tags, invoices and service history when available.

To document the technical, aesthetic and heritage condition of a pre-owned watch in a structured way, read our Mostra Watch Health Record and its 12 essential checks.

When the reference, components, authenticity or provenance require deeper analysis, Mostra also offers a dedicated watch appraisal service. If the watch shows rate deviation, winding issues or another malfunction, a watch diagnosis can identify the appropriate intervention.

3. Understand Budget and Value

Budget depends on the reference (five- or six-digit), movement (for example Daytona 4030 versus 4130/4131), configuration, condition, documentation and current market supply. A coherent and well-preserved watch can be significantly more desirable than another example carrying the same reference number.

For a broader framework covering reference, condition, configuration, documentation, provenance and market demand, read What Is My Watch Really Worth?.

Note: the production years shown above apply to model or reference families. Precise dating must be carried out reference by reference, by cross-checking serial number, case and bracelet references, movement, dial and other period-specific details.

Buying, Appraising, Servicing or Selling a Rolex at Mostra

Discover pre-owned Rolex watches  |  Have my Rolex appraised  |  Entrust my Rolex to the workshop  |  Sell my Rolex

At Mostra, every pre-owned Rolex is tested, adjusted, and prepared for daily wear—not just displayed in a showcase. Our in-house watchmaking atelier performs a full diagnostic, opens the watch, conducts water-resistance and accuracy checks, tests power reserve and amplitude, then restores as needed using methods aligned with best professional practices. Each piece is authenticated, its reference/serial/components coherence verified, and its bracelet adjusted or re-tensioned if required.

You leave with a Mostra 3-year warranty, tailored wear/maintenance advice for your use (city, travel, sport), and the assurance that if anything arises, our team will support you—overhauls, controlled polishing, periodic water-resistance, gasket/crown replacements as needed, plus assistance with insurance or resale. Buying from Mostra means entering a long-term service relationship that protects both your enjoyment and your watch’s value.

In-house atelier: our Mostra watchmaker workshop handles diagnosis, servicing and preparation; you can also read our dedicated guide to servicing a Rolex in Aix-en-Provence.

But also, at Mostra, buying a pre-owned Rolex feels like a meeting of expertise, high standards, and Rolex service. Those standards begin with Thierry Serna, co-founder and a leading figure on the watch scene for forty years. In 1992, he wrote in La Revue des Montres the very first French article devoted to the Rolex Daytona, later serving as an auction expert at Drouot in 2004 and publishing numerous pieces in Time Spec (Japan), Montres Magazine, and Paris Match. His dual perspective as historian and market specialist secures every selection: reference coherence, relevant configurations, and fair valuation—nothing is left to chance.

That same rigor carries into the workshop, led by Jean-Baptiste Contini, a certified watchmaker and head of Mostra’s service department. Each watch is opened, diagnosed, and prepared for real-world wear, not just for the showcase. Amplitude, power reserve, and accuracy are checked; any magnetization is removed; water-resistance is tested and restored when needed with new gaskets and, where appropriate, a new crown (Twinlock/Triplock). Chronometric adjustments are made within strict tolerances, finishing is handled with restraint to avoid over-polishing and preserve edges and lugs, and the watch undergoes extended quality control before delivery.

Beyond the technical work, the support is continuous: we authenticate every piece by verifying numbers and case/bracelet/movement references, and we compile a photo file to ensure full traceability. We size the bracelet—Oyster, Jubilee, President, or Oysterflex—and verify Glidelock/Easylink systems to guarantee day-to-day comfort and durability. You leave with a three-year Mostra warranty, a certificate of authenticity, and usage advice tailored to your life—city, travel, sport—along with service reminders, help with insurance, and, when the time comes, informed guidance for resale.

Choosing Mostra ultimately means choosing a relationship. We help you define the right model, the right diameter, and the right configuration, balancing everyday enjoyment with long-term value. The combination of Thierry Serna’s expert eye and Jean-Baptiste Contini’s rigorous workshop creates a rare framework of trust: documented watchmaking preparation, enlightened selection, and durable service that protect both your pleasure and the value of your Rolex.

For a complete overhaul, see our watch servicing service. For older pieces, our page dedicated to vintage and antique watches in the workshop explains the precautions to consider before cosmetic or mechanical intervention.

When buying, you can also review our approach to pre-owned watch certification, our Mostra warranty, and discover watches in our Aix-en-Provence boutique.

FAQ — Rolex History and Collections

What are the major milestones in Rolex history?

Rolex history begins in 1905 with Hans Wilsdorf and is then shaped by two major innovations: the water-resistant Oyster case in 1926 and the automatic Perpetual winding system in 1931. These milestones became the technical foundation for the brand’s classic and professional collections.

What is the difference between Rolex Classic and Professional collections?

Classic collections mainly focus on everyday versatility, elegance and dress-oriented complications, including the Oyster Perpetual and Datejust. Professional collections were historically developed for more specialised uses such as diving, travel, exploration, aviation and chronograph timing.

Which Rolex is a good first watch?

The choice depends mainly on intended use, preferred size and the period you want to wear or collect. The Oyster Perpetual and Datejust offer broad versatility, while the Explorer takes a more discreet sporting approach.

Which Rolex is best suited to travel?

The GMT-Master II tracks multiple time zones and remains the Rolex family most directly associated with travel. The Sky-Dweller adds an annual calendar and a second-time-zone display.

Which Rolex is designed for diving?

The Submariner is Rolex’s great all-round dive-watch family. Sea-Dweller and Deepsea go further with architectures developed for deeper and saturation diving.

Which Rolex should I choose for a chronograph?

The Cosmograph Daytona is Rolex’s emblematic chronograph. Its history extends from the manual-wind references of the 1960s to the automatic 16520, 116520, 116500LN and 126500LN generations.

What should be checked before buying a pre-owned Rolex?

Reference, serial number, dial, hands, case, bracelet and movement should be cross-checked for coherence, followed by an assessment of mechanical condition and service history. The Mostra Watch Health Record details this method, while a dedicated appraisal can go further on an individual watch.

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