Tudor
Black Bay ETA Smiley heritage full-set - Collector Discontinued

Tudor Black Bay ETA Smiley Heritage full-set NOS watch from 2020, an automatic diving watch whose production stopped in 2020 (discontinued). Originally designed for men but also frequently worn by women, this model is already a sought-after collector’s item in the watchmaking world. Its popularity is largely due to the snowflake hands and the distinctive “smiley” text layout at the bottom of the dial—“200m 660fts rotor self-winding”—which resembles a smile.

And it is indeed a pleasure to wear, this post-Submariner Tudor… The vivid, warm color of its rotating bezel (a 60-click unidirectional bezel designed to mark immersion times down to the minute or track a specific reference time) is a standout feature. The 41 mm stainless steel case is only 12.5 mm thick (much slimmer than other Black Bay models with in-house movements, which typically measure 14 mm), giving the watch a much more comfortable and lightweight feel on the wrist—and making it more discreet. The slightly domed edge of the dial enhances the relief and visibility of the applied markers and snowflake hands, which are highly legible even in dark or underwater environments—one of the reasons why its predecessor, the Tudor Submariner 9401, was chosen and used by the French Navy’s combat divers.

At the top of the dial and on the crown is Tudor’s historic logo, reaffirming the brand’s heritage and the lineage celebrated by the Tudor Heritage collection. To achieve a case thickness comparable to vintage models, Tudor chose to return to the original movement: the ETA 2824, rather than the modern in-house calibers found in current Black Bay models. However, the Black Bay Smiley features a modernized version of this movement—a 25-jewel ETA 2824, offering enhanced shock and vibration resistance, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and providing a power reserve of 38 hours when fully wound.

In short, this is a watch that is comfortable to wear and destined to become a future collector’s item—all while remaining suitable for daily use. Its charm lies in its cheerful personality and a design that breaks free from the classic codes of traditional diving watches. The Black Bay Smiley is proof that you can do things seriously… without taking yourself too seriously—a lifestyle it perfectly embodies.