Rolex Submariner 2020: new features, upgrades & pricing

In 2020, Rolex released a new generation of Submariners with a 41 mm case, updated calibers (3230 and 3235), and refined design features. These changes impacted both technical specs and collector interest—causing second-hand prices to rise, especially for discontinued models like the Hulk or the Kermit.

Rolex Submariner 2020: A New Generation

September 2020 marked the launch of a refreshed Rolex Submariner range. The new reference 124060 replaces the iconic no-date 114060. The case size increases from 40 mm to 41 mm, and both no-date and date versions are equipped with new movements: the Rolex caliber 3230 and 3235, respectively. Key improvements include a Chronergy escapement, upgraded finishing, and an extended power reserve of 70 hours—over 45% longer than the previous generation.

Evolution in Style and Proportions

1957–2020: The Six Generations of Rolex Submariner

A Subtle Redesign

This new 41 mm version introduces size changes that affect wearability—especially for slimmer wrists or shirt cuffs. Updates include a broader case, reworked lugs and crown guards, a wider 21 mm lug width (vs. 20 mm before), and a Rolex logo crown at 6 o’clock between the words “Swiss Made.” The crown guards are now more prominent, resembling the square shape found on Sea-Dweller models.

The New Calibers 3230 and 3235

The new Submariners feature major technical upgrades. Caliber 3230 (no-date) and 3235 (date) both benefit from Rolex's Chronergy escapement and optimized blue Parachrom hairspring, offering anti-magnetic properties and improved reliability. These automatic movements have a 70-hour power reserve, COSC chronometer certification, and beat at 28,800 vibrations/hour. The traditional bidirectional winding system and Microstella shock absorbers improve durability and performance.

Color Options and Market Impact

New Bezels and Materials

On the design front, the new Submariners retain the black dial but introduce colorful bezel options—such as green (Kermit 2) and blue. These are available on full steel, two-tone, or gold models. The subtle aesthetic changes modernize the lineup while preserving the collection’s identity.

Rising Second-Hand Prices

Retail prices saw moderate increases, but the real surge occurred in the discontinued 40 mm models. As they were phased out, prices on the secondary market skyrocketed—especially for the green Submariner Hulk, which tripled its original price. The mid-size range (worn by both men and women) saw an estimated 40% increase in average second-hand value.

The Kermit Phenomenon

The 40 mm Kermit from 2004 also doubled in value compared to early 2020 prices, making it one of the most sought-after collector pieces—on par with iconic models like the Cosmograph Daytona.