Breitling
cosmonaute navitimer tritium - the right stuff

Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Tritium circa 1995… the right stuff tribute

Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute from the Navitimer series, dated 1995 — a vintage collector’s chronograph manufactured by Breitling between 1985 and 1991 alongside its twin model with a 12-hour dial (produced in about 3,000 units, versus 6,000 for the standard Navitimer 12h). This highly original piece features a 41.5 mm stainless steel case and is a three-register Stop-Seconds chronograph with a Stop & Go function. It has a black dial with white inscriptions, sapphire crystal, and luminous Tritium-filled markers that have naturally developed a patina over time.

The rotating bezel also functions as a slide rule. This pilot’s watch — comfortable and easy to wear — is an evolution of the model worn by NASA astronaut Scott Carpenter during the Mercury 7 mission on May 24, 1962. This chronograph reflects Breitling’s desire at the time to be part of the 1960s space adventure. The Breitling Cosmonaute is powered by a hand-wound mechanical movement, Breitling calibre 12 (built on the Lemania 1873/24 base) with 18 jewels. It beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a 40-hour power reserve when fully wound.

In terms of collecting, it’s one of the earliest wristwatches to exceed the 40 mm case size (a rare feature before the 2000s) and can be seen as a precursor to the trend of large-format watches. It also features a 24-hour time display — a layout that often surprises non-enthusiasts when they see the hand at 16:00 (while it’s actually 4:00 PM on a classic 12-hour dial). This quirky time format always makes an impression… and brings joy to its owner. Moreover, this watch is a symbol of Breitling’s rebirth and successful return under the leadership of Ernest Schneider, whose passion for aviation guided the brand back to prominence. Long overlooked at auction in recent years, this striking timepiece holds strong potential, offering triple appeal: historical significance, daily wearability, and an acquisition cost that remains relatively accessible.

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