Vacheron Constantin
Classique Finance - Or Jaune 18 Cts

Vacheron Constantin 4870 watch from 1953 in 18k gold—an elegant, timeless, and luxurious timepiece created by the Manufacture as an alternative to Patek Philippe’s Calatrava. The history of this classic model began in 1950. The first automatic version initially featured a small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock, which received mixed reviews for being too similar to its rival. Vacheron quickly reoriented the 4870 towards a more modern design, establishing the formula that would build its legend: the simplicity of a three-hand central display on a legible dial, with a single decorative element—the Maltese cross gold insert and double markers at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock—illustrating Coco Chanel’s famous quote: “In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different.”

This haute horlogerie piece from the early 1950s houses a 17-jewel automatic movement, reference P1019/2, with a bidirectional winding rotor. The escapement wheel beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour, releasing the energy stored by the balance. The Vacheron Constantin movement is based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre JLC493 calibre, developed exclusively by Jaeger-LeCoultre for Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. The mechanism features a shock absorber, a balance adjustable in five positions with thermal adjustment tailored to the watch’s destination country, a flat self-compensating Breguet hairspring, straight-line escapement, and swan-neck regulator. An unprecedented feature at the time, the 38 mm water-resistant case protects the movement from moisture, splashes, and age-related deterioration. Geneva stripes finish the movement and caseback, creating a luminous relief effect. The power reserve after full winding is approximately 42 hours.

The white dial with metallic sheen is set along a discreet circular railway minute track and marked with rectangular gold hour markers, giving the watch exceptional brightness and naturally drawing the eye toward the Maltese cross—chosen by the Manufacture as its emblem. The geometry of the sapphire crystal helps diffuse light across the edges of the dial, ensuring uniform luminosity over the reading surface. For this particular reference, and as was typical of the period, fewer than 24 examples of the 4870 model with this dial/hand configuration were produced exclusively by Vacheron Constantin—making this perfectly preserved piece nearly unique. These very limited productions aimed to stand apart from the ordinary, explaining in part the enduring affection for the brand by notable personalities and royal families since its founding in Geneva in 1755.

This timeless and classic watch, which inspired the modern Vacheron Constantin Patrimony line, is in perfect condition. Its case and movement numbers are fully signed and authenticated in the Geneva Manufacture’s records as produced in 1953. From a collector’s standpoint, this model marks the very first Vacheron Constantin watch to feature a water-resistant case with a bi-directional automatic winding movement.

You’ll find anecdotes about great watch manufacturers and details on their iconic models on our "Watch History" page.