Rolex
Datejust Sigma Dial Linen - OT-Swiss-TO Wideboy

Rolex Datejust 36 “Wide-Boy”  Ref. 1601/3 (Pre-Owned 1973) Linen  “Sigma” dial (OT-SWISS-TO)  Gold & steel, calibre Rolex 1570, 36 mm

“In the half-light of an art gallery, the light does not shine: it settles on objects and reveals what the hurried eye forgets.”

The moment you fasten it to the wrist, this 1973 Datejust 1601/3 finds its natural cadence again: a classic, slim, self-assured watch whose presence comes from the rightness of its proportions and the rare texture of its dial. The champagne “linen” motif catches the light like a finely woven canvas; the wide Wide-Boy applied markers and hands in or jaune 18 ct draw a crisp graphic; and, at the foot of the dial, the OT-SWISS-TO inscription signals that period privilege: applied indexes and elements fashioned in precious metal—an exception in the 1970s that today captivates collectors.

There is a charm in wearing a classic vintage piece that defies summary. An art lover recognises the nuance: the warmth of gold mellowed by time, the grain of a “linen” dial recalling the weave of a canvas or the paper of a silver print, the measured reflection of a fluted bezel that seeks not dazzle but poise. In the morning, you set the time as you straighten a frame; the Cyclops lens places its signature over the date, discreet yet essential. As the day passes, the 1601/3 slips under a cuff, reappears with a gesture, accompanies a private view or a dinner without ever taking the stage. It forces nothing: it sets a tempo. In a world that scrolls, it offers a measure.

In the history of the Datejust, the 1601 reference established, from the 1960s onwards, the archetype: 36 mm Oyster case, fluted gold bezel, Plexiglas crystal with Cyclops, a great variety of dials and, in the early 1970s, those famed Wide-Boy variants with widened markers and hands that strengthen legibility. Les cadrans « Sigma », appearing at the turn of the decade, bear a distinctive sign—here OT-SWISS-TO—attesting to the use of gold for the applied indexes: a connoisseur’s detail that has become a mark of rarity. Our 1973 example sits at the heart of this creative period and retains its original coherence: linen champagne “Sigma” dial, index or jaune 18 ct, Oyster architecture in steel & gold—everything that makes the nobility of a 1601/3.

From a horological perspective, the 1601/3 is powered by the calibre Rolex 1570, an automatic movement with bi-directional winding, 26 rubis, 19 800 A/h, env. 48 h of power reserve, Breguet overcoil and KIF Ultraflex shock protection. A COSC chronometer, it equipped Datejust models from 1965 à 1974; by 1973, hacking seconds was already fitted to the majority of movements for precise time-setting. In the date variant (often referred to as 1575 in catalogues, though many bridges remained engraved “1570” during production), the display appears in the window beneath the Cyclops, without quickset—a signature of the period. This watch is therefore among the last Datejusts to carry this movement family: a configuration prized by purists.

On the wrist, the style speaks for itself. The 36 mm size draws a universal silhouette, today just as masculine as it is feminine, suiting contemporary adult wrists of all kinds. In or & acier with the sought-after Jubilé two-tone bracelet, the look regains the supple elegance of the 1970s; on smooth honey or tobacco leather, the watch takes on the accents of a salon, a library, an indoor evening. A collector’s watch to be regarded as « waterproof avec retenue » by the standards of its era, it prefers subdued lights and urban settings to maritime tumult: chic suits it so well.

1973 example in very fine cosmetic and functional condition, cadran linen golden champagne “Sigma” and original Wide-Boy configuration, inspected by our workshop prior to listing. Supplied with our pochette de voyage Mostra. (The exact composition of the set—period box/papers, extra links—confirmed on request. Water-resistance and timekeeping verified before delivery.)

In Aix-en-Provence, our workshop treats every vintage Rolex as a collector’s piece: full inspection, water-resistance testing suited to period watches, timekeeping diagnostics, servicing with compliant components and respect for original finishes, along with wearing and care advice. Garantie Mostra 3 ans (on our interventions, parts & labour) and traçabilité d’authenticité secure your investment and preserve resale value. Mostra, réputé pour son service et son expérience client, a été reconnu par la presse spécialisée comme le spécialiste de l’occasion.

Time-Piece Brieffing : Datejust 1601/3: 1960–1977 approx. Movement 1570/1575: 1965–1974 (our watch: 1973, end of the period). Wide-Boy variants: early 1970s. Sigma dials: early 1970s, OT-SWISS-TO marking attesting to 18 ct gold appliqués.