Helbros
Supermatic Helbros War is Over - military specs for civilian market

Helbros Supermatic “War Is Over” Ref. 160009, circa 1945 stainless-steel case,champagne patina dial with red 24-hour scale, black “sword” hands, red sweep seconds — automatic “bumper” movement (stop-spring rotor) with 17 jewels

« When the post-war years learn to live again, a military watch becomes a reference point: legible, reliable, composed. »

1945: the Second World War is over… People step back out, rebuild, and get moving again. Cities recover their rhythm, trains stretch distances, offices refill, workshops start turning once more. In this restarting world, the watch is not an accessory inherited from war: it is an indispensable reference point. It must be read quickly, hold the day, and follow you without adding friction. That is exactly this Helbros’ territory. The champagne patina dial catches the light like aged paper, with a softness that never seeks flash. Arabic numerals provide structure, the minute track frames the dial, and the red 24-hour scale adds that “useful” layer—almost military in spirit, yet here translated into a city watch. The red sweep seconds brings everything to life: a clean, steady line that reminds you the mechanics are there—active and present—and that an early automatic can almost be felt on the wrist, thanks to the distinctive motion of the bumper, the rotor that “taps” its stops at the end of its travel, a living signature of the first automatic generations.

Originally conceived in the spirit of military watches and the constraints of the Second World War, this Helbros Supermatic is often nicknamed by collectors “War is Over”: it belongs to those very first post-war civilian watches (1945) that carried over—almost unchanged—the language of service instruments. You can read in it the same grammar found in watches made for the United States Army: highly legible Arabic numerals, a railroad minute track, an inner 24-hour scale, and an overall “useful” dial architecture designed to be read at a glance, by day or by night. That lineage also echoes certain European issued watches, right through to the Stowa worn by the French Army in Indochina: the same priority given to clarity, robustness, and an aesthetic without theatrics—where function dictates form. Here, the bumper automatic adds an extra layer of modernity: a watch that “starts itself” again—much like an era getting back on its feet.

Helbros has a distinctive story, closely tied to the American market, born in the early 20th century around the Helbein brothers, with the aim of distributing reliable, accessible watches, widely sold and very mainstream through the inter-war years and into the post-war period. In the 1940s, Helbros often meant the promise of an everyday watch: made to be worn, not pampered, with legible dials and a pragmatic approach to style. The Supermatic wording belongs to the era’s vocabulary: describing modernity through mechanics. Here, it makes perfect sense thanks to an automatic bumper movement—an emblematic technology of the period, at a time when automatic winding was still a visible innovation and proudly claimed.

The polished steel case shows clean lines and a slim bezel that visually opens the dial. The crown is fairly pronounced, reinforcing both ergonomics and the watch’s practical character. The dial construction is carefully balanced: a railroad minute track, 1940s-style Arabic numerals, and an inner red 24-hour scale (13 to 24) designed for quick continuous reading. The Helbros signature and Supermatic text sit discreetly, letting the dial’s balance do the work. At 6 o’clock, “Swiss” underlines its watchmaking roots.At the heart is a 17-jewel Helbros automatic “bumper” movement. This early winding system uses an oscillating weight with limited travel: instead of a full 360° rotation, it swings through an arc and cushions its end-of-travel against stops. Built for robustness and efficiency at a time when automatic engineering was still evolving, it delivers a very distinctive, almost “alive” mechanical feel—cherished by collectors as much for its historical interest as for its charm on the wrist. The tan leather strap shown in the photo perfectly matches the dial tone: it warms the watch and strengthens its heritage spirit while remaining genuinely easy to wear day to day.

This Helbros wears as an easy, characterful piece. With raw denim, knitwear, or a leather jacket, it settles into a natural vintage look. With a shirt and tailoring, it becomes a connoisseur’s detail: the dial patina and the red sweep seconds are enough to add depth without forcing anything. And for those who love period watchmaking, the pleasure is also inside the watch: the bumper automatic tells a story—the story of early mechanics learning to wind themselves to the rhythm of the wrist. The case shows signs of wear consistent with age, and the champagne patina dial remains very clearly readable. The watch is offered with its leather strap (photo) and a Mostra travel pouch.

Buying this watch from Mostra Store means choosing far more than a beautiful vintage piece: it means relying on a house backed by more than forty years of experience in watchmaking and in selecting pre-owned watches, with consistent standards for authenticity, coherence and wearing pleasure. That expertise is supported by an in-house watchmaking workshop, enabling serious checks before listing, verification of function, and genuine after-purchase follow-up. As a pre-owned specialist, Mostra values transparency and guidance: helping you choose also means steering you toward the right wrist presence and the right balance between patina, charm and reliability—especially for an older watch meant to be worn. This approach is reflected in verified 5-star Google reviews, highlighting a rare and exceptional customer experience: availability, clear explanations, attentive listening, and shared enthusiasm. Finally, every watch is sold with an exceptional three-year warranty, extremely rare on the pre-owned market, securing the purchase over time and turning a favourite into a serene decision.