Chanel
Première Classic M Strap Size - Lady Two Tones

Chanel Première Ref. H0001 Gold-plated & black leather Black dial, Quartz, adies’ watch Pre-owned 1998 , Mostra travel pouch

“1990s fashion at your wrist: a couture line, deep black, and the luxury made accessible through the pre-owned market.”

In the late 1980s and throughout the 1990s, the Chanel Première H0001 appeared on magazine pages, in department-store windows and on the wrists of women moving through the decade in sharp tailoring, structured jackets, denim and black silk. The gold-plated octagonal case, the chain-and-black-leather bracelet, the glossy black dial: everything speaks the language of Parisian fashion of that era, with clean silhouettes and accessories that define a style rather than shout about it.

Decades later, the same Première reappears on the wrist of a modern woman. Codes have evolved, but the line remains. Worn with straight jeans, an oversized blazer, white trainers or ankle boots, the H0001 never feels dated; it adds just the right touch of 90s character for those who enjoy vintage flair without sacrificing present-day comfort. You wear it the way you would carry a cherished Chanel bag or revive an iconic jacket: a style gesture that tells a story without overplaying it. In the morning, you fasten it as naturally as a favourite bracelet. The black leather and gold-plated chain match a simple wardrobe: a white shirt, perfectly cut T-shirt, leather jacket or fluid monochrome dress. The black dial, free of numerals, acts like a small lacquered tile on the wrist. It tells the time, of course, but above all it sets the tone: a confident femininity that favours line over effect. This is where the magic of the pre-owned market comes in. Once reserved for clients ready to pay the full price of a jeweller’s timepiece, the Première H0001 becomes, in its vintage form, an accessible gateway into the Chanel universe. Nothing is lost in terms of signature or design; what you gain is freedom. The watch is no longer an untouchable object; it becomes a true companion, something you actually wear, take on weekends away and slip into a Mostra travel pouch without hesitation.

In the evening, the same Première becomes more theatrical, yet always restrained. With a black dress, satin skirt, wide trousers and heels, it returns to its original setting: soft lights, a theatre, a busy restaurant, a table among friends. Gold plate and black leather resume their typical 90s dialogue, from a time when jewellery did not need to scream to hold the stage. Caught in the corner of your eye as you move, it feels instantly right: this watch has seen decades go by, yet looks as if it were drawn for today.Launched in 1987, the Chanel Première marked the house’s formal entry into watchmaking. From the outset, it took a different path: closer to a jewel than a technical instrument, conceived as a natural extension of the couture universe. The case echoes the outline of Place Vendôme and the N°5 bottle stopper, while the chain-and-leather bracelet recalls the straps of Chanel’s quilted bags. In the 1990s, the gold-plated and black leather version—such as this Ref. H0001—became one of the most coveted configurations. It embodied an unapologetic Parisian luxury, yet in proportions that remained perfectly suited to feminine wrists. It was worn with tailored suits, monochrome ensembles, silk blouses and structured jackets that defined the decade.

Our 1998 example belongs to that key period: the Première had fully found its place within the Chanel universe, and its design was established enough to be recognised as an icon. More than twenty-five years on, the same shape is viewed through the lens of vintage: a watch that has stood the test of time, now worn with the added pleasure of bringing a piece of fashion history to the wrist without paying a “new retail” price.This Chanel Première Ref. H0001 features an octagonal yellow gold-plated case with typically feminine proportions, designed to follow the curve of the wrist without feeling heavy. The flanks and edges are gently softened and polished to catch the light with a soft glow. With no prominent bezel, focus falls directly on the black dial, like a small piece of lacquer framed in gold.The deep black dial embraces absolute simplicity: no numerals, minimal or no text, just two clear hands. This pared-back approach strengthens the link with Chanel’s universe of perfume and jewellery rather than that of tool watches. Legibility remains excellent, and the black-and-gold contrast suits both light outfits and total black looks. The chain bracelet consists of gold-plated links woven with a strip of black leather in classic Chanel fashion. It sits on the wrist with supple ease, worn like a bracelet and easily stacked with other fine bangles. The folding clasp is integrated, preserving the bracelet’s aesthetic while providing security and comfort.

The watch is powered by a quartz movement—an obvious choice for such a model—ensuring precision and reliability with virtually no maintenance beyond periodic battery changes. There is no winding ritual or frequent adjustment; you simply pick up the watch, fasten it and get on with your day. Water resistance is designed for everyday life (splashes, handwashing), with the usual precautions associated with leather straps and jewellery-style watches.Day-to-day, the Chanel Première H0001 naturally appeals to women who enjoy playing with references. It resonates with those who lived the 1990s first-hand, and equally with those discovering that aesthetic through vintage pieces. Paired with jeans, a white T-shirt and a trench or long coat, it lends a couture touch that quietly nods to its era without freezing the look.In the office, it combines effortlessly with a shirt, blazer and cigarette trousers. The gold-plate and black leather pairing allows it to enter formal environments without tipping into ostentation: the Chanel signature is recognisable, yet the contained size and discreet dial make it as credible a work companion as it is chic. At weekends, it relaxes: knit dress, long skirt, oversized jumper, biker jacket—everything suits it, as long as the outfit owns a bit of character. Again, the pleasure lies in the contrast between the aura of the brand and the ease of everyday use. You no longer hesitate to take a Chanel on a weekend away: buying pre-owned has already broken the taboo of being “too precious”.

In the evening, it returns to its natural stage: little black dress, heels, a clutch bag. Gold plate catches the light; black leather reads as a graphic line around the wrist. This is precisely the setting for which the H0001 was originally drawn, and one in which it still excels today.The watch offered is a 1998 Chanel Première Ref. H0001 in gold plate and black leather, sold pre-owned and accompanied by a Mostra travel pouch. The case presents a pleasing overall condition for its age, with even gold plating, preserved edges and only light surface marks consistent with careful wear. The black dial is in very good condition, with no significant spotting or deterioration; the hands remain crisp, and the crystal is clean. The gold-plated and black-leather chain bracelet retains a suppleness and tension appropriate to the watch’s age, ensuring comfortable wear. The Mostra travel pouch included is ideal for transporting the Première safely in a handbag or suitcase, encouraging you to actually live with the watch rather than keeping it confined to a box.

Like all watches offered by Mostra, this Chanel Première H0001 has been rigorously checked by our in-house watchmaker before being placed on sale. We verify the performance of the movement, the integrity of case, clasp and bracelet, and the condition of dial and crystal, so you can enjoy a worry-free wearing experience from day one. Mostra provides an exceptional three-year warranty on its watches—rare on the pre-owned market and particularly valuable for a vintage women’s watch you intend to wear frequently, both day and night.

Mostra—renowned for its service and customer experience—has been recognised in both the specialist and women’s press (Vogue, Figaro Magazine, etc.) as the pre-owned specialist, offering the largest selection of women’s pre-owned watches in the south of France. By choosing this Chanel Première H0001 from Mostra, you are not only acquiring an iconic 1990s fashion watch at a price made more accessible by the pre-owned market; you are entering a long-term buying experience built on transparency, rigorous selection and personalised guidance.

Our team will help you choose the right model, work out how best to integrate it into your wardrobe and adopt the right care habits, with the calm, precise attention that truly reassures. Every watch is examined with care before being offered, so that your pleasure in wearing it is both immediate and lasting, and our follow-up allows you to keep your timepiece alive over the years with a trusted partner at your side. This closeness, this attentive listening and this culture of detail also explain our clients’ loyalty: our reviews are verified and carry a five-star rating, reflecting a consistently successful experience and a level of service that meets the expectations of passionate collectors and newcomers alike.