Rolex
Submariner no date - Full-set

Rolex Submariner reference 114060, 2015 Full Set example, the final major 40 mm generation of the no-date Submariner before reference 124060, 40 mm 904L stainless-steel Oyster case, black lacquered “SWISS MADE” dial with applied white-gold surrounds and blue-emitting Chromalight hour markers, Mercedes hands, deliberately no date display or Cyclops magnifier, unidirectional rotating bezel with black Cerachrom 60-minute insert, sapphire crystal, protected screw-down Triplock crown, screw-down caseback, original water resistance to 300 metres, Oyster bracelet reference 97200 with Oysterlock safety clasp and Glidelock adjustment system, Rolex calibre 3130 automatic chronometer-certified mechanical movement operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, 31 jewels, approximately 48-hour power reserve after full winding, 2015 watch supplied with its original box, papers and accessories, inspected, authenticated and covered by Mostra’s 3-year warranty.

“There is something about a no-date Submariner that technical specifications struggle to explain. Three hands, twelve hour markers, one bezel and no calendar to interrupt the design: for more than seventy years Rolex has continued to refine almost the same idea. Perhaps it is precisely because the Submariner tries to say so little that it has been able to travel through so much — diving, cinema, exploration, journeys and ultimately the everyday lives of several generations of owners.”

The 2015 Rolex Submariner 114060 occupies a particularly interesting position within this long history. Introduced in 2012, it retained the original concept of the no-date Submariner while incorporating everything Rolex had developed to bring its diving watch into the twenty-first century: Cerachrom bezel, solid-link Oyster bracelet, Glidelock clasp, highly legible Maxi dial and an Oyster case water-resistant to 300 metres. Yet it retained a 40 mm diameter and, above all, the almost perfect symmetry that has always distinguished the no-date Submariner. Within the model’s genealogy, the 114060 now appears as a transitional reference: considerably more modern in construction than the 14060M it replaced, yet still more compact than the 41 mm 124060 introduced in 2020.

The story begins in the early 1950s, when Rolex sought to develop a wristwatch capable of meeting the demands of the rapidly expanding world of autonomous diving. The first Submariners appeared around 1953-1954, with pioneering references 6204, 6205 and 6200 progressively establishing the fundamental codes: a highly contrasted black dial, excellent legibility, screw-down crown, Oyster case and rotating bezel allowing elapsed underwater time to be monitored. The Mostra Magazine feature devoted to the history of the Rolex Submariner illustrates precisely how this silhouette was built through successive evolution rather than sudden revolution, each generation adding an improvement while preserving an immediately recognisable architecture. The following decades transformed this professional watch into one of the most identifiable objects in watchmaking. References 6538, 5512 and then 5513 accompanied the development of diving and permanently established the crown-guard design. Some Submariners were used in military and professional contexts, while others entered cinema and helped create an image extending far beyond the underwater world. Yet behind that cultural significance the watch continued to follow the same logic: when a diver looks at a Submariner, the time and elapsed duration must be understood immediately.

This is precisely the lineage preserved by the 114060 and its no-date dial. The absence of a window at 3 o’clock and of a Cyclops lens is not a missing function; it is almost a statement of intent. The dial returns to complete symmetry, with a luminous marker at each cardinal point and a display devoted exclusively to time. For many collectors, this is the configuration closest to the founding idea of the Submariner. The watch was never intended to become a universal calendar; it was designed to indicate the time, monitor a dive and continue functioning when the environment became more demanding.

The black lacquered dial of this generation features the large applied white-gold-surrounded indexes characteristic of modern Rolex watches. Their luminous material uses Chromalight, producing a blue glow in darkness and giving the watch an instantly recognisable night-time identity. Mercedes hands, the broad minute hand and central seconds are designed to remain clearly distinct from one another. Underwater, this hierarchy is essential; on land, it simply becomes one of the reasons why time can be read on a Submariner almost without conscious effort. The black Cerachrom bezel marks one of the most visible evolutions from the previous generation. On historic Submariners and the later 14060M, aluminium inserts could scratch, gradually lose colour and develop the patina now prized by vintage collectors. Ceramic follows a different philosophy: preserving its deep black appearance over time and providing exceptional scratch resistance. The 60-minute scale remains sharply defined while the unidirectional action preserves the safety principle of a genuine diving watch.

Its use remains remarkably simple. Before diving, the bezel marker is aligned with the minute hand; elapsed time can then be read directly. If the bezel is accidentally moved, its one-way rotation can only indicate a longer duration than the one actually elapsed, never a shorter one. On land, the same function becomes one of the Submariner’s most useful tools: timing twenty minutes, a journey, a training session or simply creating a visual time reference without reaching for a phone. The quality of a genuine tool watch is often revealed by how many of its simple functions one actually ends up using.

The 40 mm Oyster case is another important characteristic of the 114060. Rolex officially retained the historical 40 mm diameter while adopting a more substantial architecture, with broader lugs and crown guards giving the watch considerably greater visual presence. This design, often called the “Maxi Case” by collectors, represents a very recognisable period of Rolex production. It gives the Submariner the presence of a contemporary watch while retaining dimensions sufficiently restrained for everyday wear.

The screw-down Triplock crown, protected between substantial crown guards, works with the screw-down caseback and sapphire crystal to provide the original 300-metre water resistance. This makes the 114060 a genuine professional dive watch even though most owners will never ask it to reach anything approaching such depth. On any pre-owned watch, actual use in water should naturally depend upon a recent pressure test: the theoretical specification of a model and the real resistance of an individual example years after manufacture are two different things.

The Oyster bracelet reference 97200 is probably one of the most important improvements introduced with this generation. Its solid links give the watch a far greater feeling of robustness than earlier Rolex bracelets, while the Oysterlock safety clasp secures the closure. Above all, the Glidelock system transforms everyday comfort by allowing the bracelet length to be progressively adjusted without tools. Originally conceived for fitting over certain diving equipment, it becomes an exceptionally useful everyday feature when wrist size changes slightly with temperature or activity.

Inside is the Rolex calibre 3130, the no-date version of one of the manufacture’s most proven movement families. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, contains 31 jewels and provides approximately 48 hours of power reserve after full winding. This automatic movement with central seconds and hacking function belongs to a generation of Rolex calibres whose reputation was built upon robustness, stability and the ability to be maintained for decades. Its role in this Submariner is perfectly coherent: no unnecessary complication, simply a movement entirely devoted to reliable timekeeping.

The 2015 production year also places this example at an interesting point in the life of the reference. It no longer belongs to the initial launch period and benefits from the maturity of a watch whose architecture was firmly established, while remaining far enough from the end of production to fully represent Rolex design in the middle of the 2010s: 40 mm broad-lug case, ceramic bezel, Maxi dial and modern bracelet. For a collector, it therefore forms a particularly clear marker between two generations.Before it, the 14060 and 14060M still represented a Submariner visually much closer to twentieth-century watches, with an aluminium insert and older bracelet architecture. After it, the 124060 introduced in 2020 would bring a 41 mm case, revised proportions and the calibre 3230 with significantly greater autonomy. The 114060 consequently remains the only no-date Submariner generation combining a nominal 40 mm case with a Cerachrom bezel. This combination explains why collectors are beginning to see it not merely as a used modern Submariner, but as a clearly identifiable chapter within the history of the model.

The 2015 Full Set naturally strengthens the appeal of this example. Original box, papers and accompanying accessories preserve continuity from its first delivery and provide an important degree of traceability. On a reference produced in meaningful numbers but now strongly sought after, differences between examples increasingly come down to case condition, component coherence, bracelet condition and documentation. Two 114060 watches carrying the same reference are therefore not necessarily two equivalent watches. This is also one of the principles regularly explored in Mostra Magazine features devoted to the Submariner and the collector-watch market: the reference number is only the beginning of an appraisal. One must then read the individual watch, understand its generation, examine its surfaces, verify the coherence of dial and hands, assess the bracelet, study service history and consider its documentation. The Submariner has existed for long enough that every generation now carries its own collector criteria, from the early 6204 to contemporary references.

Wearing a 114060 allows its owner to enjoy that history without accepting the constraints of a genuinely vintage Submariner. Sapphire crystal, ceramic bezel, modern bracelet and robust construction make it suitable for intensive everyday use, while the no-date dial retains a direct visual link with the earliest generations. It can be worn with a suit, shirt, polo or diving equipment without appearing to have changed its role. That ability to move between environments is probably one of the secrets of the Submariner’s success: it was designed as an instrument so fundamentally right that its appearance ultimately transcended its original purpose.

For someone seeking a single Rolex capable of accompanying almost an entire life, the 114060 therefore combines qualities that are difficult to find elsewhere. It is sporting without being visually overloaded, modern without looking technological and instantly recognisable without requiring spectacular decoration. The absence of a date also makes it exceptionally easy to pick up after several days of rest: a few turns of the crown, set the time and it is ready to go. That simplicity becomes especially valuable within a collection where several watches rotate on the wrist.

Choosing this 2015 Full Set Rolex Submariner 114060 from Mostra means benefiting from more than forty years of experience in collectible watches, a highly regarded integrated watchmaking workshop in Aix-en-Provence and one of the largest selections of high-end pre-owned watches in the South of France. The Submariner is a watch we know particularly well: case and edge quality, dial, hands, Cerachrom bezel, Triplock crown, sapphire crystal, 97200 bracelet, Glidelock clasp, calibre 3130 and overall mechanical operation are examined to establish the coherence and actual condition of every example. Mostra’s verified customer reviews carry a 5-star rating, reflecting an approach based upon transparency, expertise and long-term support. This Submariner is offered as a 2015 Full Set, accompanied by a Mostra Certificate of Authenticity and covered by the Mostra 3-year warranty. Its future owner therefore acquires not simply an emblematic reference, but an example inspected by our workshop with access to a specialist capable of supporting the watch over time.

The Rolex Submariner 114060 ultimately tells a particularly coherent chapter of the history described in Mostra Magazine. Between the earliest Submariners of the 1950s and today’s 41 mm generation, it represents the moment when Rolex modernised almost every component of its diving watch without changing what defined its essential identity: a black no-date dial, three hands, a diving bezel and the ability to remain on the wrist when the city ends and the water begins. A modern Submariner already historical through its position in the lineage, and probably one of the purest contemporary interpretations of the Rolex watch designed to be worn everywhere.