Jacques Bianchi
JB 200 HeadMark Limited Edition - Full-Set

Jacques Bianchi Marseille JB200 Headmark, limited edition of 100 individually numbered pieces, 42 mm × 12.5 mm 316L stainless-steel dive-watch case with full black PVD coating and alternating polished and brushed finishes, unidirectional rotating bezel with black insert and luminous pearl, matte-black dial with broad luminous ivory markers, ivory hour hand, fully bright-orange minute hand coated with Super-LumiNova C3, ivory seconds hand with orange tip, date aperture at 6 o’clock, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, protected screw-down crown, screw-down stainless-steel caseback engraved with the JBM logo and individual serial number, 200-metre water resistance, Swiss Soprod P024 self-winding mechanical movement operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, approximately 42-hour power reserve after full winding, 25 jewels, black Tropic rubber strap accompanied by a black-and-orange JBM strap, watch assembled in Marseille and sold as a 2026 Full Set with original case, numbered certificate and accessories, inspected, authenticated and covered by Mostra’s 3-year warranty.

“Underwater, the eye does not search for detail. It searches for a reference, a direction and information that can be understood immediately. The great achievement of the Headmark is to transform that necessity into a genuine visual identity.”

The Jacques Bianchi Marseille JB200 Headmark belongs to that particular family of watches whose appearance seems to have been dictated by use before becoming desirable. Its black case, matte dial and orange hand were not brought together merely to create the image of a professional diver. They establish a hierarchy of information. The hours must remain readable, yet it is the minutes that pace an immersion, a journey, decompression and the return to the surface. Jacques Bianchi therefore gives the minute hand a colour the eye cannot confuse with any other: a bright, direct, almost signal-like orange, designed to separate from the black dial as light becomes weaker and colour gradually disappears with depth.

The word Headmark comes from the vocabulary of navigation. It identifies a fixed visual reference used by a pilot or navigator to understand position, confirm alignment or maintain direction without interpreting a complex set of information. Translated to the wrist, the principle becomes especially coherent. Ivory markers structure the hour, the orange hand identifies minutes immediately and the orange tip of the seconds hand confirms that the watch is running. The JB200 Headmark becomes a stable personal reference, simple enough to be read instinctively and visually strong enough to remain distinctive away from the water.

The 42 mm 316L stainless-steel case preserves the established proportions of the JB200 while adopting an entirely contemporary presence. Its 12.5 mm thickness remains controlled for a watch providing 200 metres of water resistance. The full black PVD coating strengthens the silhouette, reduces unwanted reflections and gives the case an almost stealth-like character. Alternating polished and brushed finishes prevent the watch from becoming visually flat: light catches the edges, then disappears across the matte surfaces.

The unidirectional rotating bezel continues this culture of genuine use. Its black insert provides the references required to follow elapsed time, while the luminous pearl at 12 o’clock makes the starting point visible as light fades. The one-way rotation follows the traditional safety principle of dive watches: accidental movement may shorten the indicated remaining time, but can never artificially extend it. The bezel also remains useful above water, timing a navigational stage, an exercise interval, a meeting or any period within an active day.

The matte-black dial absorbs rather than reflects light, giving the hands and markers maximum contrast. Warm ivory luminous material creates a discreet visual connection with earlier professional dive watches without resorting to exaggerated artificial ageing. The date aperture at 6 o’clock preserves the vertical balance of the dial. In daylight, the orange minute hand immediately attracts the eye. In darkness, its green-emitting Super-LumiNova C3 continues the same function, working in harmony with the luminous bezel pearl.

The Headmark extends the story of the JB200, the Marseille dive watch introduced during the early 1980s and now one of Jacques Bianchi’s most recognisable designs. The JB200 Headmark is not presented as an individually issued military watch and does not claim provenance it does not possess. It belongs instead to a lineage whose credibility comes from genuine diving culture, professional use and a Mediterranean watchmaking identity developed far from the great Swiss centres. It uses modern materials, sapphire, a contemporary Swiss movement and unapologetic black PVD while preserving the functional simplicity that established the JB200.

Inside is the Swiss Soprod P024 automatic movement, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz. Its 25-jewel construction reduces friction at the principal moving points, while its approximately 42-hour power reserve after full winding allows the watch to remain at rest overnight or through a day before being worn again. Automatic winding maintains energy through wrist movement, manual winding allows easy restarting and hacking seconds supports precise setting.

Its 200-metre water resistance gives the JB200 Headmark genuine dive-watch legitimacy. The screw-down crown, closed back, anti-reflective sapphire crystal and overall construction allow the watch to accompany recreational diving, navigation, swimming and nautical activity, naturally subject to valid pressure testing before immersion. This robustness also provides freedom in everyday use, where rain, heat, perspiration, travel and unexpected changes of plan require far fewer precautions than a traditional dress watch.

The black Tropic strap is the configuration most directly associated with diving. Supple, water-resistant and easy to clean, it stabilises the case while preserving the language of a professional tool watch. The black-and-orange JBM strap gives the watch a lighter and more graphic personality, allowing the orange of the strap to answer the minute hand. The two original straps provide two genuinely different ways of wearing the Headmark while preserving its identity.

From a collector’s perspective, the limited production of only 100 numbered pieces provides immediate relevance. Its rarity is nevertheless supported by more than an engraved number. The Headmark has a configuration unlike any conventional JB200: full black PVD, matte dial, orange minute hand, a strongly organised display and two original straps. Now sold out by the manufacturer, it combines the confidentiality of a short series, the coherence of a functional design and the identity of an independent French watch house increasingly recognised by collectors of military, professional and maritime watches.

The 2026 Full Set directly strengthens this interest. Original Jacques Bianchi case, numbered certificate, documents and both straps preserve the exact context of the watch’s initial presentation. Within a series of only one hundred pieces, completeness documents the individual example and protects its future collector coherence.

This 2026 Jacques Bianchi Marseille JB200 Headmark Full Set is offered pre-owned by Mostra following careful inspection of its authenticity, individual serial number, Soprod movement, rate, amplitude, automatic and manual winding, date, crown, bezel, sapphire crystal, PVD coating and complete original presentation.

Choosing this JB200 Headmark from Mostra means benefiting from more than forty years of experience in collectible watches, a highly regarded in-house watchmaking workshop in Aix-en-Provence and one of the largest selections of high-end pre-owned watches in the South of France. The collection brings together modern, vintage, military and diving watches, supported by specialists able to evaluate mechanical condition, historical coherence and long-term collector relevance.

Mostra’s verified customer reviews carry a 5-star satisfaction rating, reflecting an approach built around transparent descriptions, informed advice and long-term support. This JB200 Headmark is supplied with a Mostra Certificate of Authenticity, its complete original Full Set and the Mostra 3-year warranty, giving its future owner direct access to an identified specialist and a workshop capable of supporting the watch over time.

A JB200 Headmark is ultimately chosen for more than its black case or orange hand. It is chosen for the accuracy of its concept: making the minute a reference, turning legibility into an aesthetic and translating Marseille’s diving heritage into a contemporary, rare and genuinely wearable watch.